The Singapore Sport Climbing Contingent
I have been neglecting my blogging duties since returning about a month ago from the SEA Games in Palembang, Indonesia. Its been super busy for the past 2-3 months with me route-setting at the gym, managing the business, coaching my students at TPJC and CCSS plus doing ad-hoc courses at Kinetics. On top of of these, i have had to build up my fitness level for the SEA Games itself. It hasn't been smooth sailing but i am glad everything turned out reasonably well. Plus i shouldn't be complaining as i got a Silver from the bouldering event!
Singapore's only Silver Medal !!!!
One month prior to the event itself, i was actually progressing very well in my build-up for both the bouldering and the leading event but due to an unfortunate incident, i tore something in my middle finger. It was probably due to the lack of a proper warm-up which resulted in the injury. It still hasn't fully recover up till today.
Anyway, you can imagine how disappointed i felt when i had the finger checked and found out that i told something. Took a week off climbing and found that the training effect that i painstakingly achieved from my training sessions was totally GONE. As such, i decided that in order for me not to make a fool out of myself at the Games, i would have to continue training and tread the fine line between not over stressing my finger but at the same time maintaining a high level of fitness.
Anyway, you can imagine how disappointed i felt when i had the finger checked and found out that i told something. Took a week off climbing and found that the training effect that i painstakingly achieved from my training sessions was totally GONE. As such, i decided that in order for me not to make a fool out of myself at the Games, i would have to continue training and tread the fine line between not over stressing my finger but at the same time maintaining a high level of fitness.
The interval trainings i did at Kinetics were DEFINITELY helpful in maintaining my fitness. However i took the training to a different level completely when i implement weights into the intervals. Without weights, i could comfortably finish all the Greens and Yellows in the gym with limited rest times between each climb. With an addition of 5kg on the weight vest, everything changes. The training really breaks you BUT it helps in bringing your fitness up a notch as you see yourself progressing with each session. Intervals are excellent because it simulates the conditions in the competitions itself. The rule of specificity is extremely important as many sports trainer will tell you.
As i have mentioned before, i don't usually train specifically for competitions. I prefer climbing and working on routes as this naturally gets you strong. This time around i chose to do otherwise as this is the first and probably the only time Sport climbing is included in the SEA Games. It might not be as big as the World Cups but i think it carries more prestige as Singaporeans can relate to it easier.
The girls with their medals from the Speed Relay
All of the gold medals were swept by the Indonesians except for the Womens Bouldering event which was won by Ina from the Philipines. She was definitely not the strongest or the most powerful female at the event but she definitely was one of the best female climbers in SEA. I guess all of us shouldn't be complaining too much. Afterall, other than the Indonesians who train FULL-TIME, most of us or should i say ALL of us have full time jobs or studies to deal with on top of having to train for the SEA Games.
In addition, you will be surprised to know that the Indonesians receive very good support from their Sports Council and federation. They do not have to worry about the lack of facilities to train on nor was there any lack of monetary support. It sucks when your Chef-de-Mission expects a Gold from Sport Climbing when they themselves don't give us the support. Perhaps he should consider purchasing some Austrians to represent Singapore instead.
It is heart-breaking especially if you have had to travel across the causeway to KL numerous times to train at Camp 5 or Putrajaya - which was what Suzanna and Sue-Ann did, put in so much effort and at the end, falling short at competitions. Then again, i have long learned that competitions are like that. You can be the best climber out there but a foot slip or a bad day can render you last place. That is the nature of comps and one will do well not to take it too seriously. Afterall, competitions are only a very small part of what climbing is all about!
In addition, you will be surprised to know that the Indonesians receive very good support from their Sports Council and federation. They do not have to worry about the lack of facilities to train on nor was there any lack of monetary support. It sucks when your Chef-de-Mission expects a Gold from Sport Climbing when they themselves don't give us the support. Perhaps he should consider purchasing some Austrians to represent Singapore instead.
It is heart-breaking especially if you have had to travel across the causeway to KL numerous times to train at Camp 5 or Putrajaya - which was what Suzanna and Sue-Ann did, put in so much effort and at the end, falling short at competitions. Then again, i have long learned that competitions are like that. You can be the best climber out there but a foot slip or a bad day can render you last place. That is the nature of comps and one will do well not to take it too seriously. Afterall, competitions are only a very small part of what climbing is all about!
All our Medals!
There were however many takeaways from this SEA Games. We have in our midst a world class Speed climber, Adriel, who managed to achieve a personal best timing that would have placed him in the top 16 speed climbers in the World. Even the Chinese umpire was extremely impressed with his performance and called him a GENIUS when comparing Adriel to the World's No.1 speed climber, Zhong Qixin who took 3-4 years of training to get to where he was.
Anyway i have had too much plastic for the past 3 months and i really need to get outdoors to climb. I can feel the motivation waning already.... Yangshou in March 2012 anyone?
Anyway i have had too much plastic for the past 3 months and i really need to get outdoors to climb. I can feel the motivation waning already.... Yangshou in March 2012 anyone?
