Overdue.

This post is long overdue. I was 2nd for Pumpfest and 3rd for Boulderactive which took place a couple of months back. Managed to squeeze out a couple of trips overseas including one at Krabi. The last time i was there was way back in 2010 when i sent Greed. There were a couple of new climbs here and there but most of the climbs (which i wanted to finish up) were in the sun.

One of the highlights of the short 5 day trip was definitely sending Sissyfuss, 8b, which was put up by TJ about 5 years ago. With only 6 draws and at about 10 metres, the crux of the entire climb came down basically to the movements between the 2nd and 3rd runner which took me close to an hour to work out on my 1st worked attempt, even with the beta from the bolter, TJ himself. This climb is really special because it is definitely not about being able to pull down hard. Managed to send it on my 4th go after a rest day. Check out my send (including the butt jam!) which was caught on video.

me on Sissyfuss, 8b

On my 2nd last day, i also managed an onsight of Just Call me Helmet (putting up my own draws). Though rated 8a on the book, i think 7c/+ would be more appropriate.

I followed that up 1.5hrs later with a "Flash" of the classic Society of Gravitational Studies, 7c+, also putting up my draws at the same time. This was not a true Flash as i have tried this climb a long time ago when Spider and Tanleng were still in Krabi climbing. The only thing i could recall was that this climb was STEEP and i got spanked. This time around, i had excellent beta from Andy Popeye was convinced to try it, and was rewarded with the send.

Returning the favor, i helped Andy pulled up draws on Tantrum and gave him the beta for him to work on the climb. Tantrum was my first climb in the 8th grade which i redpointed back in 2002 when i was 22. A good hold has since broke. If you enjoy climbing on roofs with decent holds, this is the climb to try!

Check out my send back in 2002 below!

Tantrum 8a+ from Jay Koh on Vimeo.

My hardest flash to date.....

another video uploaded!

Zona 30, 8b at Margalef from Jay Koh on Vimeo.

Finally could upload another video on Vimeo. This is me sending Zona 30 on my last day in Margalef. The send was in the evening, about 3 hours after redpointing Flash Over 8b+, consisting of between 55-65 moves depending on your sequence! Had to work quite a few days on these 2 routes!

Margalef Part 2....

part of sector el laboratori. spot FRFM

And so my siesta to Spain has finally ended.  Managed to take some nice photos and videos of a couple of hard sends and best of all, I pretty much completed everything on my tick list!!! This is phenomenal considering the fact that I would usually only complete at most 50% of what I wanted to climb on all my previous trips.

Rest day activity - visiting Oliana

and this is terradets!

Continuing from my previous post, I wanted to get onto something harder, midway through my climbing trip. Had my eyes set on either Nina Mala 8b, Darwin Dixie 8b+ or Aitzol (previously 8c, now downgraded to 8b+). Ended up working on Flash Over 8b+, which shares the same start as Nina Mala because I saw 3 guys on it and the moves were so beautiful. 

santa linya

I also had the good fortune of catching Adam Pustelnik coming close on his flash attempt, falling right at the very top! This monster of a climb weighs in at about 28m with about 55-65 moves depending on your sequence. There are 3 decent rests with poor foot holds separated by sustained steep climbing on pockets at the beginning 1/3 and boulder cruxes no harder than V5/6. It’s no wonder why climbers with good endurance can send the climb quickly eg. Sasha who sent it on her 2^nd attempt. I also had the good fortune to witness some French lass finish this climb….with a little bit of effort.

rest days activities

more sightseeing.....

As the route catches the sun after about 3pm, I had to adjourn to another sector, el Laboratori to work on another route, Zona 30 which is considered to be a pretty solid 8b. This climb was also been worked on by the 9 year old Angie from Australia who send it just a few days before me. Zone 30, opened by Markus Bock, is totally the opposite style of climbing from Flash Over. It’s about 8m long with about 15 moves to the anchors. The action basically starts from the 1^st move and chalking is not mandatory. I chose this climb wanting to maintain some strength and power but I also knew it was a very risky bet working on two hard climbs in a day. I could either send both OR go home empty handed.

this is how you put up runners! =D

To spare you the details of my mental and physical battle (more mental actually), I left everything to the very last day and send both climbs!!! Flash Over on my 3^rd go of the day (13 tries in all, though I should have got it done with 8 instead) at about 2pm and Zona 30 on my 2^nd go at 6pm. In between these 4 days of climbing, I also managed to get myself onto a few other nice 7Bs at sector Finestra.

margalef conglomerate

To put this trip in comparison with previous ones, this was the most fulfilling one to date. There are just too many beautiful climbs and sectors left unclimbed and unexplored. The one sector which I really want to go back to is Espadelles. Unfortunately I had only 1 day here and it was too warm to go back to as it faces the sun constantly. Will have to be back here when it’s colder and enjoy the climbs in the sun. Margalef offers all kinds of routes that will suit many climbers on conglomerate rock.

it can be quite chilly in the morning

Here’s a list of my sends in terms of difficulty:

1. Flash Over 8b+

2. Zona 30 8b (send on same day as 1.)

3. Photoshot 8b, 2^nd go

4. La Bombi 8b, 2^nd go (send on same day as 3. Felt more like 8a/+, crux being clipping the 3^rd draw!)

5. El Fustigador 8a+, FLASH (my first flash of this grade)

6. Dr Feelgood 8a, ONSIGHT (my first official 8a onsight =)

7. Dando Brea, 8a FLASH

8. Malasombra 7c+, ONSIGHT (superb climb and NOT easy for the grade)

9. Aeroplastica L1 7c+, 2^nd go (super polished, the only climb in the 7^th grade I fell off from)

And many other climbs in the 6s and 7s……

me on Photoshot, 8b

I am seriously considering postponing my trip to Hueco Tanks to come back to Margalef again. We shall see what happens though. In the meantime, enjoy these pictures and video of my send! Will post more soon!

Photoshot, 8b from Jay Koh on Vimeo.

Margalef 2014 !!!

It's been quite a while since i have written anything. I have been out to Laos last December for a quick trip but climbing has been very much hampered by my golfer's elbow on my right arm. It's really frustrating as the tennis elbow on my left arm took almost a year to recover fully. Laos is filled with limestone cliffs and possess a very scenic environment, away from the craziness of the Singapore city life.

Welcome to Margalef!

Fast forward 4 months and i am now in Margalef, Spain for the next few days and have had 5 wonderful climbing days so far. Have heard and seen so many pictures of this place and this is for sure one of the best places i have been to so far! There is just so much to do and all kinds of routes from 4s-9s on conglomerate rock. Routes can be short and bouldery or really long and sustaining so you are really spoilt with choices.

Sector Finestra, that's where Gancho Perfecto is...

Prior to coming here, i have been systematically follow a training program and at the same time tried to climb regularly even though the recovery of my elbow has been painstakingly slow. Somehow it hasn't bothered me much and i have managed to achieve many new personal milestones.

skinny dog needs to hide in a down jacket to stay warm

The weather here has so far been good, and temperatures range from between 18-24 degrees celsius in the daytime to about 10 deg at night. It's possible to climb in the sun but only in the early mornings or when it is cloudy. Crags like Espadelles(5 start crag) which face the sun pretty much the entire day are almost impossible to climb at unless you want a nice tan while cranking up slimey pockets. It's a shame but i will have to come back in March instead of April when its colder.

me at Finestra en route to sector Tenebres

As usual, i have a ticklist (like every previous trip) of what i would like to try and send. However the BIG difference this time around is that i am managing to take down the climbs way faster than any previous climbing trips! Plus i am sending at least an 8a almost every day!

Sector  Cova Soleiada. Onsighted my first official 8a here!

It has been a long time coming and i have been closed on numerous occasions but i have finally onsighted my first 8a, Doctor Feelgood last Sunday! I had another big day just 2 days ago on 16th April. Managed to send Photoshot, 8b on my first redpoint go right before noon, fighting really hard and screaming right at the very top. Had wanted to give it a good flash go but the draws were unfortunately down so i had to put up my own draws and worked the moves at the same time. Came down and rested about 20 minutes before giving it a good burn and had to fight hard at the top because i really don't want to fall and do this climb again! This is the first 8b which i have completed on my 2nd go. Followed this up with the send of another climb La Bombi, rated 8b in the book the same day but in the evening on my 1st redpoint go as well. This climb is much shorter, only 4 runners and you pretty much pre-clipped the 1st two. Basically a short boulder about V9/10 and the hardest move for me was to clip the 3rd draw. These climbs were all captured on video!

Lovely Lamb chops!

Had another big day yesterday as well when i flashed my first 8a+, El Fustigador, all thanks to excellent beta from Till and Johannes from Germany. Tills was literally screaming beta from below whilst belaying me and Johannes from the top, whilst taking some nice photos at the same time. 

It's funny how the last hard route which i flashed, Carte Blanche 8a in ceuse, the exact same thing happened, with belayer and photographer shouting beta up and down respectively.

The cathedral at Tarragona

Have yet to fall off anything below 8a+ yet so i'm keeping my fingers crossed and hope for the best.
This is my tick list so far:

12th April, Saturday
1. Baby sitter 7a
2. La Niña de la selva 7a+
3. Equiparrostolls 7a
4. Malasombra 7c+
5. Amb pal no doña pal 7b

Taking in the sights at Tarragona

13th April, Sunday
1. Murciegalus 6b+
2. Samson 6c+
3. Estilson 7a+
4. Kriptonita 7c+
5. Doctor feelgood 8a

putting up the draws and working the moves on Photoshot 8b

14th April, Monday
1. Magrana 6b+
2. Montgronyeta 7b+
3. Magic festival 7c

15th April, Tuesday
Rest

The big flapper after my redpoint of Photoshot 8b!

16th April, Wednesday
1. Murdoc 6a+
2. Escargot boobe 6b+
3. Photoshot 8b, 2nd go
4. Fanatic 7a+
5. Besame mucho 7b+
6. La bombi 8b, 2nd go

my first 8a+ flashed!

 17th April, Thursday
1. El pesafigues 6b
2. Okupa hristo 6b+
3. Vells temps 7a
4. El Fustigador 8a+, Flashed!
5. La corva de la felicitat 7c

 VENGA !!!!!