All in all it was a pretty good trip to Tonsai. On top of finishing Greed, i went around climbing and repeating loads of easier stuff from 7a - 8a+. Most of the climbs in krabi were polished beyond belief but i was glad that there were a few crags notably Cat Wall that are still ok for now.
Repeating many of the routes on tonsai roof and falling off the new Tidal Wave on my first go was another memorable experience!!! Its hard for its grade now, requiring quite a bit of body tension after the huge jug located right in the middle of the route broke off. Tantrum 8a+, which was my first climb in the 8th grade also felt harder and requires a completely different sequence at the slopey shelf as Yi Chuan had broken off a crucial jug the year before. Thankfully i didn't fall off this climb =D
I also had the good fortune of meeting up with Bjorn and his wife on this trip who generously offered me the chance to snag the FA on his new line to the right of gaengsompla. Athough there are still some loose rock, this should clear up as more people get onto it. This awesome line goes at 7b+ and is more technical than it looks due to the severe overhanging nature of the line akin to tidal wave. Here's a pic of Bjorn working hard(bolting!!!) and his wife on the line (Speak No Evil, 7b+) a couple of days later...
Plus i was obliged to take some photos of Kenneth since he belayed me a couple of days ago for 2 hours under the scorching afternoon sun on Greed as Q wanted some good photos of me climbing. You can find his works here http://www.jamesqmartin.com/. Will post up pictures as soon as he sends them to me. Meanwhile here are some shots of Kenneth on Gaengsompla, 7c+. In addition, he send Phaet Mak 7c+ in a few goes. Big Ups to him !
Now that Greed is in the bag, many people have asked me if i would still be coming back to Krabi to climb. The answer is a big YES! There are still so many routes left undone plus Ao Nang is starting to see new development and has the potential for many beautiful lines. Plus its way cheaper to stay and travel around Krabi and Ao Nang than at Tonsai/Rai Lay.
Anyway here's a couple of climbs which i really wanna do
Definitely Makes You Whinge, 7C (rebolted end 2008)
This beautiful line is located between the 2 climbers on the wall. And yes, the photo was taken donkey years ago with Han Ping on Strider 7a+ with Assad belaying.
Sissyfuss 8b/+
This superb line by TJ features excellant rock with minimal hand and footholds. Anyone attempting it will required EVERY single part of his body to work his butt into the crux and out of it. I had a go on it and will be back for this 5 star route!!!
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