pushing standards since 2000: Margalef 2014 !!!

It's been quite a while since i have written anything. I have been out to Laos last December for a quick trip but climbing has been very much hampered by my golfer's elbow on my right arm. It's really frustrating as the tennis elbow on my left arm took almost a year to recover fully. Laos is filled with limestone cliffs and possess a very scenic environment, away from the craziness of the Singapore city life.

Welcome to Margalef!

Fast forward 4 months and i am now in Margalef, Spain for the next few days and have had 5 wonderful climbing days so far. Have heard and seen so many pictures of this place and this is for sure one of the best places i have been to so far! There is just so much to do and all kinds of routes from 4s-9s on conglomerate rock. Routes can be short and bouldery or really long and sustaining so you are really spoilt with choices.

Sector Finestra, that's where Gancho Perfecto is...

Prior to coming here, i have been systematically follow a training program and at the same time tried to climb regularly even though the recovery of my elbow has been painstakingly slow. Somehow it hasn't bothered me much and i have managed to achieve many new personal milestones.

skinny dog needs to hide in a down jacket to stay warm

The weather here has so far been good, and temperatures range from between 18-24 degrees celsius in the daytime to about 10 deg at night. It's possible to climb in the sun but only in the early mornings or when it is cloudy. Crags like Espadelles(5 start crag) which face the sun pretty much the entire day are almost impossible to climb at unless you want a nice tan while cranking up slimey pockets. It's a shame but i will have to come back in March instead of April when its colder.

me at Finestra en route to sector Tenebres

As usual, i have a ticklist (like every previous trip) of what i would like to try and send. However the BIG difference this time around is that i am managing to take down the climbs way faster than any previous climbing trips! Plus i am sending at least an 8a almost every day!


Sector Cova Soleiada. Onsighted my first official 8a here!

It has been a long time coming and i have been closed on numerous occasions but i have finally onsighted my first 8a, Doctor Feelgood last Sunday! I had another big day just 2 days ago on 16th April. Managed to send Photoshot, 8b on my first redpoint go right before noon, fighting really hard and screaming right at the very top. Had wanted to give it a good flash go but the draws were unfortunately down so i had to put up my own draws and worked the moves at the same time. Came down and rested about 20 minutes before giving it a good burn and had to fight hard at the top because i really don't want to fall and do this climb again! This is the first 8b which i have completed on my 2nd go. Followed this up with the send of another climb La Bombi, rated 8b in the book the same day but in the evening on my 1st redpoint go as well. This climb is much shorter, only 4 runners and you pretty much pre-clipped the 1st two. Basically a short boulder about V9/10 and the hardest move for me was to clip the 3rd draw. These climbs were all captured on video!

Lovely Lamb chops!

Had another big day yesterday as well when i flashed my first 8a+, El Fustigador, all thanks to excellent beta from Till and Johannes from Germany. Tills was literally screaming beta from below whilst belaying me and Johannes from the top, whilst taking some nice photos at the same time.

It's funny how the last hard route which i flashed, Carte Blanche 8a in ceuse, the exact same thing happened, with belayer and photographer shouting beta up and down respectively.

The cathedral at Tarragona

Have yet to fall off anything below 8a+ yet so i'm keeping my fingers crossed and hope for the best.
This is my tick list so far:

12th April, Saturday
1. Baby sitter 7a
2. La Niña de la selva 7a+
3. Equiparrostolls 7a
4. Malasombra 7c+
5. Amb pal no doña pal 7b