Sunday, August 17, 2014


This post is long overdue. I was 2nd for Pumpfest and 3rd for Boulderactive which took place a couple of months back. Managed to squeeze out a couple of trips overseas including one at Krabi. The last time i was there was way back in 2010 when i sent Greed. There were a couple of new climbs here and there but most of the climbs (which i wanted to finish up) were in the sun.

One of the highlights of the short 5 day trip was definitely sending Sissyfuss, 8b, which was put up by TJ about 5 years ago. With only 6 draws and at about 10 metres, the crux of the entire climb came down basically to the movements between the 2nd and 3rd runner which took me close to an hour to work out on my 1st worked attempt, even with the beta from the bolter, TJ himself. This climb is really special because it is definitely not about being able to pull down hard. Managed to send it on my 4th go after a rest day. Check out my send (including the butt jam!) which was caught on video.

me on Sissyfuss, 8b

On my 2nd last day, i also managed an onsight of Just Call me Helmet (putting up my own draws). Though rated 8a on the book, i think 7c/+ would be more appropriate.

I followed that up 1.5hrs later with a "Flash" of the classic Society of Gravitational Studies, 7c+, also putting up my draws at the same time. This was not a true Flash as i have tried this climb a long time ago when Spider and Tanleng were still in Krabi climbing. The only thing i could recall was that this climb was STEEP and i got spanked. This time around, i had excellent beta from Andy Popeye was convinced to try it, and was rewarded with the send.

Returning the favor, i helped Andy pulled up draws on Tantrum and gave him the beta for him to work on the climb. Tantrum was my first climb in the 8th grade which i redpointed back in 2002 when i was 22. A good hold has since broke. If you enjoy climbing on roofs with decent holds, this is the climb to try!

Check out my send back in 2002 below!

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