OR Show and American Fork Canyon

The plan was to head up to Salt Lake City for the OR Show a week or so after my return from Italy and i was seriously not looking forward to the 21 hr flight with 2 stopovers. On top of that, i was down with a bad cold and was seriously jet lagged such that i had a miserable time route setting in the gym 3 days prior to my flight up to SLC. Thank goodness i recovered in time and the flight did not turn out to be so bad.

To save money, i had to crash in at Spy's and Tanleng's apartment for the entire trip! On top of visiting the OR show, i wanted to visit some of the local gyms and of course try to squeeze in a few climbing days at their local crags.

Both Spy and Tanleng are currently living right beside the University of Utah in SLC, focusing hard on trying to attain their PHD within the next couple of years whilst at the same time earn some money teaching and of course climb till their arms drop. Looking at how often they get to go outdoors (at least 2-3 times a week), i'll say it beats getting couped up in Singapore anytime.

They will complain about getting stuck in the gym when the snow literally dumps on them for at least 6-8 months every year, but hey, i won't mind getting stuck in those good gyms getting myself sick strong for the season outdoors! Afterall, there are TONNES of rock in Utah. Within a 3 hr drive, there's Little Cottonwood Canyon, American Fork Canyon, Logan Canyon, Joe's Valley, Maple Canyon etc.........

I was their best man during their wedding back in 2007 (i hope i got the year right!). Spy and i were also known as the JD brothers, after being the first 2 Singaporeans to send Jai dum. This was a bench mark 8b climb in Krabi but having both done a couple more 8bs elsewhere since then, we think that it might be a little bit on the soft side. Anyway here's a picture of us at American Fork Canyon!

Team Singapore @ American Fork Canyon!

Though i was way more keen on bouldering, it was summer and probably a million degrees at Joe's Valley. As such the only crag i managed to visit was American Fork Canyon, which is about an hr's drive from their apartment.

For the uninitiated, AF is a place where many Americans such as Boone Speed and Scott Franklin have left their mark here. JC Hunter also recently did the FA of a potential 5.14b, Fantasy Island here. At first glance, the rock is chossy and honestly looks like CRAP. The wall itself at El Diablo and Hell Cave is about 10m in height so basically its bouldering on a rope. BUT most of the routes climb well and i throughly enjoyed myself even with the limited amount of time spent there.

Though i am always apprehensive about getting onto harder climbs on short trips, i hopped onto Dead Souls 5.13d/14a and did a quick 2 day ascent of this beautiful line. This was by far the least amount of time i have spent on a climb of that grade and i was initially sceptically about the difficulty of the route. Tanleng reassured me that nobody downgrades the climbs in American Fork and to just accept it as it is. Plus with the type of climbing done in Singapore (mostly bouldering), i have come to realise that i excel better in short and bouldery routes. Here is a video of a SLC local, Amy Cockerham on the route.

http://www.momentumvm2.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=61:dead-souls-amy-cockerham&catid=13:video&Itemid=3

Tanleng managed to get a video of me attempting another 5.13d/14a, Cop Killer, falling off at the crux. Though most of the moves are relatively easier as compared to Dead Souls, it houses a single move, rated at V9 that felt almost impossible in the conditions of SLC's summer afternoon. According to Spy, this was also the move that stopped a certain Ethan Pringle from flashing everything in American Fork when he was here! (other than I Scream, a 14C). This climb will have to wait till my next visit though in the meantime, Spy is really close to sending this line!

Cop Killer 5.13d/14a from Jay Koh on Vimeo.

I also had the opportunity to visit and climb in a couple of gyms, two of which was The Front @ Odgen and @ SLC. Both were bouldering centric and had tonnes of routes that were properly documented and marked out. Great place to train and get strong.

Bouldering at The Front @ Ogden


Check out the height of the bouldering walls!

Visiting Momentum climbing gym was also on the list, though it would have been better if i had enough time to get some climbing done there. Anyway i must admit they probably have one of the best, if not the best route management system i have ever seen. Plus, they have TONNES and TONNES of routes for all abilities. Check out some of the pictures here!

16m - 18m high walls!


Route under Review!

Tonnes of routes....

Anyway BIG UP to Tanleng on sending her first 8a, Girl Power at Logan Canyon! For sure you are cranking much harder after the nasty incident earlier this year!